Simple and Delicious Peel-Free Mashed Potatoes - VIDEO

Yukon Gold Potatoes

Mashed potatoes are a staple in most homes, an alternative to other starches such as pasta or rice.  There are many techniques and supposed rules to make this potentially delicious side dish, but done improperly and the potatoes can become gummy, lumpy, bland, or runny.

And why anyone would purchase dehydrated mashed potatoes in a box is completely lost on me. 

 The most common way of mashing is by using a simple hand-masher.

This old-school method is effective but time consuming and risks burns from the hot mash.  Most importantly, lumps are nearly impossible to eliminate from the mash with this hand tool without also stimulating the gluten in the potato making them gluey in texture.  So one either lives with lumps or risks making wallpaper paste.

A more modern method, and one used to make large quantities in commercial kitchens, is the use of the stand mixer.

 
Sometimes called "whipped potatoes,"  the peeled and boiled potatoes are introduced to the mixer with the paddle attachment.  Butter and milk/cream and salt are added to the bowl and the mixer is set on high until the mix is smooth.  Brutal in its effectiveness, the mixer method does make a "whipped" mash, but again, the starches are so maltreated that the final product can become gummy.

And what additional and tedious step do these two methods require? Peeling of the potatoes.  Ughh.

The potato
As the headliner in this side, the choice of potato variety is paramount.  Potato strains generally fall into two buckets:  the starchy potato and the waxy potato.  An example of the starchy potato is the common russet, best for baking and frying (as in french fries), the cooked interior of the starchy potato is fluffy and loose.

Russet

Red Bliss

In contrast, the waxy potato has a more solid interior structure and lends itself to boiling or roasting.  The red bliss potato is the most common example of this variety.

Mashed potatoes can be made with either.  However, the dense structure of the waxy varieties can negatively impact the texture.  I do like these potatoes when making a more rustic "smashed potato" that includes lumps and all, plus the skins.  For classic mashed potatoes, one should focus on the starchy varieties.

You will find as you follow this blog that I am a big fan of the work done by Christopher Kimball, best know for his magazine Cooks Illustrated and his television program America's Test Kitchen.  His trial and error method of recipe testing coupled with a nod to the logic of food science (and the dispelling of old kitchen wives' tales) suits my personal approach.  Chris and his team have tested numerous varieties of potatoes for the perfect mash.  There was an assumption that the russet would come out on top.  However the texture and flavor of the yukon gold potato outperformed the common russet, which lacked a depth by comparison.

The availability of this yellow potato at your grocer is now secure, and they can usually be found in bulk or by the bag.

Our method
So by now we understand the secret to fluffy and tasty mashed potatoes (besides copious amounts of butter) is limiting starch agitation, but also limiting lumps.  A paradox.  The solution?

Meet the potato ricer:

This handy gadget can be had for less than $40.  It is essentially a giant garlic press into which you put a whole or half potato on the container, flip the plunger over the potato, and squeeze the handles while ribbons of "riced" potato are extruded through the holes at the bottom.

The Business End Of the Ricer

 And the unintended benefit of this operation?  The potatoes can be boiled to tender with their skins on, and inserted into the ricer intact.  The unpeeled potato simply runs through the ricer and leaves the skin behind.  No Peeling Required!

The adjuncts
While the potato is the headliner, the support team is essential to bring out the best in the mash.  For me, that list includes butter (flavor), half-and-half (moisture and texture), and salt.  Rather than introducing these cold ingredients to the hot potatoes, we either preheat the butter and milk in the microwave, or simply heat them over the stove in the same pot in which the potatoes were boiled.
I generally use about 1/2 stick of butter and a 2/3 cup of milk to start with about 3 pounds of potatoes.  If the mash needs some more moisture I add the milk sparingly while gently mixing the riced potatoes to incorporate.  The outcome is delicious.

Here is the video of our potato escapades:



Jeff.